Thursday, May 19, 2011

A Year in Perspective

May 19th, 2010 was an interesting day. I spent quality time in DC with some friends and Arielle, we had dinner, drinks and then went to bed. All the time, my mind seemed to wander, seemed to think about other things. What would the future bring? Mainly, with regards to my best friend, my mentor and my personal corner stone - my Dad. Now, just one year later, I find myself in a different corner of the world, new friends, new language, ways of communicating, new emotions, new outlook on life, new perspectives, new goals, and still I suppose the same person - in appearance anyways. 
I was chatting with my Mom on skype just this past weekend, my neighbor asked me, "how old are you going to be?" I actually had to stop and think. I know that the older generation reading this will laugh, write this off as simply "young delusions in perception," but lets be honest, the beauty of sharing experiences and ideas is that every person's perception is somewhat different. While perception changes (as it should) throughout life, perhaps I have given some merit to my current state. In short, I feel as if it has been a long year. It was one year ago that Vince courageously under went massive brain surgery (that he naturally brushed off as "routine") in what would prove to be his last big swing of the fight of his life. I don't say this to make myself or anyone else feel depressed or unhappy, but rather to shed a bit of light, once again, on my year in review, because, it feels like it has been a damn long time - the longest in my short memory.
Time passes in such an interesting manner. You can look back in life and compare long periods of time that feel like a snap, short periods of time that feel like a breeze and all other intervals in between. The only commonly agreed upon assumption of time is: It takes way too damn long for a Major League Baseball game to end. I digress - A few for-instances: It feels like Dad has been gone for some time now. It has been just shy of 10 months and it feels like those 10 months have crawled by. If this is the case, then how can time here in Ethiopia pass so quickly? Three months down? Are these three months not measured on the same scale as the 10 he has been gone? I don't understand it and have had a hard time wrapping my head around this stark contrast. Im not exactly sure why this is the case. Any insights are welcomed.
This year was filled with a lot of big steps, and I am wondering if these steps were intentioned or was more like crossing a river by stepping on rocks: you only think about the next dry place and the next, and so on.....hmm. Lost Dad, Bought my first new car (which officially makes me an American, I personally think we should do away with SSN#'s), saw my first ever Steeler's playoff victory (monkey is off my back), went through emotions I never though possible, grew closer to people who I never though I could get closer to, moved from Washington DC - via Pittsburgh - Addis Ababa on 2 weeks notice, lived abroad again in a completely foreign place for 3months and still kicking. And so, feet securely on dry rock, I wonder just where the next step will be. 
I think the hardest part, for me about being in this foreign place is: not being able to share it with Vince. This has been my struggle here. Don't get me wrong, there are other struggles, but they are more simple frustrations that a few deep breaths and a beer can easily mend. I constantly see different things within the culture, people, and food that I think he would have really enjoyed and I would have enjoyed sharing with him. While he grew a bit "set in his ways" in his latter years, at heart, Vince was the type of guy that valued his relationships with other human beings more than anything else. This is why he would have loved me being here, loved it here himself, and would have been loved here. But I hope, that I am able to resemble him in my interactions here. I think this gives a little relief to my struggle. 
Enough of this sappy, introspective rubbish. Arielle took off last evening, it was great to have her here and she is already sorely missed. My friends here in Addis grew quite fond of her, which, if you know her, is not easy to do :) Joking. We had a blast while she was here, just hanging out, mainly in Addis, enjoying life, chatting and laughing more times than not. In typical fashion, Arielle is currently in Istanbul for two days, then to NYC, Boston, Amherst Mass and back to DC. We both continue to move in crazy directions, but are enjoying each other's company as always. All in all it was great for her to come here, and gave me the much needed relief of a familiar face. 
Addis is still alive and kicking, the rains are slowly moving in which is really nice (if you ask me - since I'm writing, you have no choice). The days are much cooler, filled with clouds and sometimes rain. If you know me, you know I hate the heat and for the most part the sun unless at the beach, or bouncing off of fresh powder, so, the colder, rainy season is welcomed. There is also something that is instinctively human about sleeping in peace while the rain ricochets off of the landscape outside. Quite peaceful. As far as my time here, still trying to figure out exactly what the next few months will bring. It looks like I will be here through early July, then back to the States for a few weeks, and with all hopes, back to Ethiopia for some months. But, this is all in flux and since I have been reflecting on the interesting turns of the last 12months, lets just say that I am learning, slowly, to expect anything and prepare to be okay with it. I will keep everyone posted.
All in all I am doing well, heading out to celebrate with my friends for a few beers, but was doing some serious deep-thinking and felt inspired to share a bit or at least put it into words for my own personal therapy/relief. I can only hope that I continue to grow as much as I did in the past 12months. I can only hope that I continue to learn from Vince. I can only hope that I continue to develop strong relationships with people who lift me up. Thats my hope for the upcoming 12months. O yea, and that the Steelers win the SuperBowl. Light and Love

Mike

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Bahir Dar and a Taste of Home

        For the second installment of this o-so-theraputic blog, I was waiting for something to really strike me, but have come to the realization that forcing myself to write is crucial. While simply keeping my own journal is important, it is sometimes hard to be diligent when writing to an audience that consists of, well, me. I suppose I'll write about my latest adventure to Bahir Dar, Ethiopia - this time, I had a partner in crime.
Arielle joined me in Ethiopia last week, arriving late Wednesday night, which is typical here in Addis. There is not too much to say about this welcomed visit except that when you are completely out of your "natural environment" for an extended period of time, seeing someone who knows you probably better than anyone else is quite therapeutic. We have shared many laughs which is much appreciated. I find that living here can be challenging in the most basic senses (i.e. humor). Since I rarely find myself taking myself seriously, interacting with someone who has the same sense of humor is a huge relief. It is also great to have a touch of home here in Ethiopia. It is good to have someone laughing at your stupid jokes.
Anyways, I booked two tickets to fly to Bahir Dar early Saturday morning, returning Monday evening. Bahir Dar is town north of Addis, located on Lake Tana. The town is the third largest city in Ethiopia (I think around 150-200,000 people) and is sometimes referred to as the "Ethiopian Riviera." This nickname comes from it's wide, palm tree-lined streets and laid back attitude. The climate is much warmer and feels more like western Kenya or Uganda due to its lush environment. There are definitely some tourist attractions in and around the city, all of which we managed to hit and a good time was had by all.
Saturday - Arrived at 8AM, took a taxi from the airport to a place called Ghion Hotel in order to beat the other tourists who were staying there, booked a room (with my exceptional bargaining skills) at 250Birr/$15/night. We had heard about a large Saturday market in town, so decided to venture out for a walk. It was an interesting market, hopping with locals, long alley's to get lost in, and miles of goods for sale. There really is nothing like the feeling you have while wondering aimlessly through a hectic third world market. Everyone wants to talk to you b/c of your obvious ability to purchase goods/spices/live goats, sheep and chickens. As I always tell the vendor's, "I would love to buy this goat, but I don't think U.S. Customs will appreciate it" and also when I have to answer the question, "Have you come in contact with any livestock" affirmatively, it could really delay my re-entry into the ever-popular, ever-paranoid US of A. This usually doesn't quell their efforts. Long story short, I managed to take a couple Donkey head-butts squarely on the ass, dodged a crate of tumbling Mangos, and was recruited by my o-so-beautiful travel partner to bargain for local scarves and goods. Feeling that we had both received enough attention (Arielle was quite popular among the local men) from the Bahir Dar faithful, we settled in for a Coca-Cola at a local corner shop. It is also important to note that the feeling of a coke (made with real sugar, not corn syrup like in the States) going down the pipes in this beautiful country can be a slice of heaven. We ventured back to the Hotel for some R&R by the lake, more chatting and some local food. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday.
Sunday - We woke up early, met a guide who I had been referred to from another friend here in Addis. Got on a small motorized boat and set out on Lake Tana to visit two islands, each with people living on them, each with multiple monasteries for viewing. Our guide was amazing and we visited many modest monasteries with absolutely fabulous paintings all over the walls inside each monastery. We also were able to go to Solomon's (our guide) house, meet his family (they live on the island) and have injerra and goat meat, araki (moonshine), and local beer. Now there a few things that need to be said about the aforementioned house visit: 1.For those of you who know her, the ever-popular, always replicated/never duplicated Arielle Conti is a vegetarian. As you will see in the photos below, she has been broken down in her one week here and has been gnawing on any cooked meat she can get her hands on. Watching her rip into a lamb bone covered in meat was quite fun and I'm sure her mother will be relieved. 2. You may ask yourself, "Mike, how did you manage to drink all of this locally brewed alcohol." I would answer with: It is not an easy job, but that is why they pay me the big bucks. First we had bottomless glasses of local beer - which can be strong, but tastes and looks like puddle-water. This is where you pray that whatever fermentation that has taken place in said puddle-water kills whatever else has been mixed in. Arielle asked, "How do you make this." I immediately piped up and said: Don't answer that! It can sometimes ruin the experience. Araki - local moonshine, however, will burn any lining left in your stomach and you have to pinch back one small shot of it, which is all it takes to set you off on a crooked path. All in all, great experience, made for an interesting rest of the day. We finished up the boat tour around 3pm, relaxed and ate some local fish for dinner. Great day all around.
Monday - Thank God for local holidays - no work - one last thing to do before departing Bahir Dar: Blue Nile Falls. Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile river which meets the White Nile in Khartoum (Sudan) and forms the Nile River that you and I all know and love (Moses, straw baskets, Pharaohs etc.) The White Nile starts in southern Uganda, and for those readers who have been with me since my first African adventure may recall I rafted this part of the Nile S. Uganda. Regardless. We wound up taking a Bajaj (Ethiopia) TukTuk(Kenya) Rickshaw(India) - small three-wheeled motorized cart to the falls outside of Bahir Dar (1.5 hour trip each way). The road to the falls is rough and will give you a really thorough African Massage on the way. Arrived at the falls, quite impressive, but was supposed to be much more impressive before they built a huge Dam (hydro-electric) just up stream. The trip was worth it either way and I have great pictures to show for it. We returned to Bahir Dar town and went straight to the airport where we learned of Bin Laden's capture/death. I must say that I remember where I was when the towers fell, when we invaded Iraq and I don't think I'll ever forget where I was when I heard this news: A small Airport in the middle of Ethiopia. Flew back to Addis, tired of local injerra and spices, consumed a glass of wine and pizza at one of my favorite local spots and crashed. All in all a great weekend. 
Not too much else to write, I hope this entry finds everyone well - I am doing great, My life is not that extraordinary, have settled into normalcy, completely adjusted. Looking to stay on here for work a bit longer. Looking to come home for two weeks in July. Other things to note: Have been looking for new music to listen to, if you have any suggestions please comment. Arielle brought me a new camera, have been trying to get into photography, see some pictures below. Thats all for now - much love.



 Beautiful Flowers - Beautiful color - Art, who goes there?

 Ghion Hotel - Great scenery

 Arielle's "Hot 100" Photo shoot

 Look at what I got at the Market!

What? Look where? 

Bayonete - Fasting Ethiopian food 

Example of paintings in the Monasteries

Local Beer - a.k.a. Puddle water - drink up 

Arielle's re-entering into Omnivore-ism  

Our guide Solomon w/ his Mom at their house 

Hot, tropical walk

Traditional chanting drum - being played - by a non-traditional hand 

Murals/Frescoes/Paintings 

Detailed 

Suave, Calm, Cool and collected (okay, a little bit drunk and sun-burned) 

Traditional Fishing boat - sinking - I suppose this is why tradition sometimes needs changing 

Nice Photo 

Conti and Rooney do Blue Nile Falls 

It's a bit sunny 

 The falls in all their glory
Goodnight and Goodluck