Thursday, May 5, 2011

Bahir Dar and a Taste of Home

        For the second installment of this o-so-theraputic blog, I was waiting for something to really strike me, but have come to the realization that forcing myself to write is crucial. While simply keeping my own journal is important, it is sometimes hard to be diligent when writing to an audience that consists of, well, me. I suppose I'll write about my latest adventure to Bahir Dar, Ethiopia - this time, I had a partner in crime.
Arielle joined me in Ethiopia last week, arriving late Wednesday night, which is typical here in Addis. There is not too much to say about this welcomed visit except that when you are completely out of your "natural environment" for an extended period of time, seeing someone who knows you probably better than anyone else is quite therapeutic. We have shared many laughs which is much appreciated. I find that living here can be challenging in the most basic senses (i.e. humor). Since I rarely find myself taking myself seriously, interacting with someone who has the same sense of humor is a huge relief. It is also great to have a touch of home here in Ethiopia. It is good to have someone laughing at your stupid jokes.
Anyways, I booked two tickets to fly to Bahir Dar early Saturday morning, returning Monday evening. Bahir Dar is town north of Addis, located on Lake Tana. The town is the third largest city in Ethiopia (I think around 150-200,000 people) and is sometimes referred to as the "Ethiopian Riviera." This nickname comes from it's wide, palm tree-lined streets and laid back attitude. The climate is much warmer and feels more like western Kenya or Uganda due to its lush environment. There are definitely some tourist attractions in and around the city, all of which we managed to hit and a good time was had by all.
Saturday - Arrived at 8AM, took a taxi from the airport to a place called Ghion Hotel in order to beat the other tourists who were staying there, booked a room (with my exceptional bargaining skills) at 250Birr/$15/night. We had heard about a large Saturday market in town, so decided to venture out for a walk. It was an interesting market, hopping with locals, long alley's to get lost in, and miles of goods for sale. There really is nothing like the feeling you have while wondering aimlessly through a hectic third world market. Everyone wants to talk to you b/c of your obvious ability to purchase goods/spices/live goats, sheep and chickens. As I always tell the vendor's, "I would love to buy this goat, but I don't think U.S. Customs will appreciate it" and also when I have to answer the question, "Have you come in contact with any livestock" affirmatively, it could really delay my re-entry into the ever-popular, ever-paranoid US of A. This usually doesn't quell their efforts. Long story short, I managed to take a couple Donkey head-butts squarely on the ass, dodged a crate of tumbling Mangos, and was recruited by my o-so-beautiful travel partner to bargain for local scarves and goods. Feeling that we had both received enough attention (Arielle was quite popular among the local men) from the Bahir Dar faithful, we settled in for a Coca-Cola at a local corner shop. It is also important to note that the feeling of a coke (made with real sugar, not corn syrup like in the States) going down the pipes in this beautiful country can be a slice of heaven. We ventured back to the Hotel for some R&R by the lake, more chatting and some local food. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday.
Sunday - We woke up early, met a guide who I had been referred to from another friend here in Addis. Got on a small motorized boat and set out on Lake Tana to visit two islands, each with people living on them, each with multiple monasteries for viewing. Our guide was amazing and we visited many modest monasteries with absolutely fabulous paintings all over the walls inside each monastery. We also were able to go to Solomon's (our guide) house, meet his family (they live on the island) and have injerra and goat meat, araki (moonshine), and local beer. Now there a few things that need to be said about the aforementioned house visit: 1.For those of you who know her, the ever-popular, always replicated/never duplicated Arielle Conti is a vegetarian. As you will see in the photos below, she has been broken down in her one week here and has been gnawing on any cooked meat she can get her hands on. Watching her rip into a lamb bone covered in meat was quite fun and I'm sure her mother will be relieved. 2. You may ask yourself, "Mike, how did you manage to drink all of this locally brewed alcohol." I would answer with: It is not an easy job, but that is why they pay me the big bucks. First we had bottomless glasses of local beer - which can be strong, but tastes and looks like puddle-water. This is where you pray that whatever fermentation that has taken place in said puddle-water kills whatever else has been mixed in. Arielle asked, "How do you make this." I immediately piped up and said: Don't answer that! It can sometimes ruin the experience. Araki - local moonshine, however, will burn any lining left in your stomach and you have to pinch back one small shot of it, which is all it takes to set you off on a crooked path. All in all, great experience, made for an interesting rest of the day. We finished up the boat tour around 3pm, relaxed and ate some local fish for dinner. Great day all around.
Monday - Thank God for local holidays - no work - one last thing to do before departing Bahir Dar: Blue Nile Falls. Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile river which meets the White Nile in Khartoum (Sudan) and forms the Nile River that you and I all know and love (Moses, straw baskets, Pharaohs etc.) The White Nile starts in southern Uganda, and for those readers who have been with me since my first African adventure may recall I rafted this part of the Nile S. Uganda. Regardless. We wound up taking a Bajaj (Ethiopia) TukTuk(Kenya) Rickshaw(India) - small three-wheeled motorized cart to the falls outside of Bahir Dar (1.5 hour trip each way). The road to the falls is rough and will give you a really thorough African Massage on the way. Arrived at the falls, quite impressive, but was supposed to be much more impressive before they built a huge Dam (hydro-electric) just up stream. The trip was worth it either way and I have great pictures to show for it. We returned to Bahir Dar town and went straight to the airport where we learned of Bin Laden's capture/death. I must say that I remember where I was when the towers fell, when we invaded Iraq and I don't think I'll ever forget where I was when I heard this news: A small Airport in the middle of Ethiopia. Flew back to Addis, tired of local injerra and spices, consumed a glass of wine and pizza at one of my favorite local spots and crashed. All in all a great weekend. 
Not too much else to write, I hope this entry finds everyone well - I am doing great, My life is not that extraordinary, have settled into normalcy, completely adjusted. Looking to stay on here for work a bit longer. Looking to come home for two weeks in July. Other things to note: Have been looking for new music to listen to, if you have any suggestions please comment. Arielle brought me a new camera, have been trying to get into photography, see some pictures below. Thats all for now - much love.



 Beautiful Flowers - Beautiful color - Art, who goes there?

 Ghion Hotel - Great scenery

 Arielle's "Hot 100" Photo shoot

 Look at what I got at the Market!

What? Look where? 

Bayonete - Fasting Ethiopian food 

Example of paintings in the Monasteries

Local Beer - a.k.a. Puddle water - drink up 

Arielle's re-entering into Omnivore-ism  

Our guide Solomon w/ his Mom at their house 

Hot, tropical walk

Traditional chanting drum - being played - by a non-traditional hand 

Murals/Frescoes/Paintings 

Detailed 

Suave, Calm, Cool and collected (okay, a little bit drunk and sun-burned) 

Traditional Fishing boat - sinking - I suppose this is why tradition sometimes needs changing 

Nice Photo 

Conti and Rooney do Blue Nile Falls 

It's a bit sunny 

 The falls in all their glory
Goodnight and Goodluck

2 comments:

  1. ok...i'll try this again..if im repeating myself, it's because my first comment didnt post, i think......anyway...you look great and the blog is GREAT...you're not alone in "listening" to your comments!! pics are great....must be getting the hang of the new camera....Conts new nickname.."CC"...carnivore conti.....the beer? yuky looking....anyway..cant wait to see you....and im proud of your adventures and openmindedness and courage and strong character that it take to do all that you're doing!!
    love Dubs

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  2. perfecto,

    better late than never !

    am sure u r nw in big apple ? never understood that apple thing. why not a mango, or pineapple or ...whatever fruit

    looking forward to "addis ababa 2: the return of mr perfect" esp after "addis ababa 1: the roots" :)

    nice pics btw
    mwalime

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